BEAUTY CLUB SALON TIPS

KEEPING HAIR HEALTHY WHILE RELAXING

RELAXERS: What really does the most damage to relaxed hair is over-processing while applying the relaxer and the way one treats their hair post-relaxer. The hair typing chart is just as useful to women who wear relaxers as it is to women with natural hair. Therefore, if you understand the texture of your natural hair you'll have a better understanding of how often to relax your hair and various methods that you can use to stretch your hair in between touch ups. Getting relaxers too often and not giving your scalp and hair a chance to breathe will lead to your hair falling out because it is over-processed. Generally speaking, reapplying less than 3-4 weeks after your last touch-up will lead to over-processing. Also, there is absolutely no need for maximum/super strength relaxers, and you most certainly want to avoid lye relaxers.

While it is best to have your hair relaxed by a qualified professional, for some, the at-home applications are the only financial option. Try sticking to 'kiddie' perms and be patient when applying it to your hair. Make sure to work it properly and evenly throughout your hair for best results. Don't just throw an extra strength relaxer into your hair haphazardly, as it will over-process your locks and leave you with burnt clumps of hair. Do not forget about the neutralizing shampoo as well. A relaxer is highly alkaline on the pH balance scale, and neutralizing shampoo is so important because it neutralizes the disulfide bonds mentioned early, stopping them from processing your hair and leaving you with the straight result. Because neutralizing shampoos are acidic (to bring down the alkaline pH balance of relaxers) do NOT use them post washing out your relaxer, as they will overly dry your hair out.

Just as with any other hair texture, the bulk of the damage can be done by how we maintain our hair. Just because one has a relaxer does not mean that they can apply heat to their hair every day, forgo washing it and slather any old product into their hair. It's even more important for those with relaxers to mind the products that they put in their hair because they don't want it to further break down the bonds in the hair follicle. Using products that are highly acidic are counterproductive to maintaining a straight relaxer. It's best to try and maintain hair at a close to neutral pH balance (7 pH) as possible, starting with a good deep-conditioning process that you do regularly. Minimize the amount of brushing and direct heat that is applied to the hair. You already put a relaxer in, there is no need to flat iron it every day.

Finally, know that any high-alkaline product will cause your hair to straighten. Michelle Obama's very laid hair has been all the rage at the Democratic National Convention, as it gleams and flows in the spotlight. Word on the curb is that she uses a non-chemical relaxer called PhytoSpecific that contains the organic salt, guanidine carbonate, the same ingredient used in relaxers and Nair (hence why if you over-process your hair, it falls out). For women who are loosening their curls with 'Silkners' and texturizers it all comes down to the same process.

EXTENSIONS IN THE SUMMER

When wearing extensions, first thing is to invest in good hair. Although the quality of your extensions should always be top quality, in the summer this is particularly important. Cheap hair tends to mat and tangle very easily. Add extra sweat and hot temperatures and you're asking for trouble. Look for soft hair textures where the cuticles are aligned. This will do wonders and prevent major birds' nests from erupting.

You might also want to think about purchasing a wavy or curly texture in the summer. Not only are beach waves extremely sexy, but if your actual hair is curly, on those humid days, your weave will naturally curl and blend with your leave-out. Speaking of leave-outs (your actual hair that you leave out of your sew-in in order to blend with your extensions resulting in a more natural look), when installing your sew-in you should think about styles that prevent as little of your actual hair from being exposed as possible, especially if your hair does not naturally blend with your weave hair. There is nothing worse than having to constantly monitor your edges and leave-out throughout the day for fear your hair is not blending with your weave. Using a lot of heat to blend your hair is a no-no as well, so stick to an edge controller like Olive Oil's Edge Control. It'll work wonders.

Let's face it, you sweat more in the summer heat. To prevent heavy dirt and sweat build-up it's crucial to shampoo and condition your hair more frequently during these months. You do not want to neglect your hair at all, because now more than ever it needs to breathe. It's trapped under hair nets, thread and tracks, so please show your hair some love. Try not to keep your sew-in in as long as you typically leave it in your hair. You want to give your actual hair a full washing sooner than later. If you want to eliminate the itching and pain, this tip is most important. Finally, be sure to moisturize your braids and hair underneath your weave. Choose a horizontal braid pattern so that you can have easy access to your scalp. Spray on a little braid spray activator on your braids, and you're good to go. This will help eliminate the itching as well.

KEEP YOUR HAIR MOISTURIZED LONGER

The entrance of cooler weather into certain parts of the world can mean drier hair for many After finding a great conditioner and a good moisturizer, what more can you do to increase moisture retention? The following are four tips that have helped me – and will hopefully help you in your natural hair care journey:

Wash your hair regularly and sufficiently

The drenching of the hair with water (a natural moisturizer in and of itself) can replenish dry strands. Washing with a cleanser also removes dirt, pollution, and product buildup that may block moisture penetration. Even though we have historically been taught that regular washing leads to dry hair, it is more so the TYPE of shampoo that translates to moisture loss. Stick with gentle shampoos that leave your hair feeling clean but not stripped.

Mix glycerin and aloe vera gel with your sealant

Sealing the hair with an oil and/or butter helps to 'lock' in the moisture (i.e., water) from washing and conditioning. However, sometimes we need a little more beyond sealing. If you are a mixtress, try incorporating glycerin (a humectant), aloe vera gel (a moisturizer), and a little water into your sealant mixture for extra moisture retention. (Use the appropriate preservative, if necessary.) If you are not a mixtress, you may alternatively benefit from applying a heavy cream after sealing with an oil.

Choose the right material and weave for your bonnet

I work with polyester and silk regularly and have come to learn that there is such a thing as "good quality" polyester as well as "poor quality" silk. Not all polyester is bad for our natural hair, and not all silk is luxurious. Bonnets and scarves that are fabricated from polyester charmeuse (or, better known as "satin charmeuse") or silk charmeuse are generally good quality. Why is this? Well charmeuse is a type of weave that yields a softer-than-satin finish and a silk or polyester made with this weave may help with moisture retention better than any other weave.

Air-dry in medium twists or braids

Twists and braids force my hair to trap and better absorb the moisture in my strands. After a few days or more in twists or braids, I can wear a loose hairstyle that retains more moisture than had I worn the set for just one day. In my experience, protective styling is not just reserved for the mechanical protection of the ends. It has the added benefit of helping your ends absorb and retain moisture after a washing session. Medium or small twists work better for me then big or jumbo ones.

CUSTOMER REVIEWS

WHAT OUR CUSTOMERS ARE SAYING

Chuntaya Moody said:

MARCH 2013

Finally done..love myyy hair...holla at my girlll she is the best..thankssss rose! It looks all natural, there's no bumps. I've been going to her for a long time.

Bianca Gordon said:

OCTOBER 2012

This is the third time she's done my hair and I love it, she just does a beautiful job! I just love it.

Dwan Parker said:

NOVEMBER 2012

Loving my hur! Rosemarie Davis you hooked it up again!


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